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Chiang Mai is the second largest city in Thailand, and is located about 730 kilometres north of Bangkok. Travel time from the capital is one hour by plane, 9 hours by bus and about 13 hours with express train.
This old capital of the Lanna Kingdom (the land with a million rice fields) is very different from Bangkok. It is a lot smaller and easier. You have a better chance of finding what you look for, you can get around walking, and the general atmosphere is more relaxed.
City maps are available at hotels, restaurants, banks, travel agents and in bookshops, many of those are free (with ads for local businesses).
For visitors to Chiang Mai and the north I personally recommend "Exploring Chiang Mai - City, Valley & Mountains" by Oliver Hargreave, published by Within Books. This one goes in depth on restaurants, for one. On sale throughout Thailand.
Transport
The taxi meter has recently been introduced, though few drivers seems inclined to use the meter. In Chiang Mai the tuk-tuk and the songtaew's are the normal mode of transportation unless you have your own means.
The songtaew is a converted pick-up, the ones painted a rusty red makes rounds about town. Simply flag one down and state your destination. A nod from the driver indicates that he is headed where you want to go, and you hop in the back. There is a switch inside which triggers a bell, use this when you want to get off. Then hand the driver his fare, 10 Baht should do.
A tuk-tuk ride inside town should cost between 30 and 60 Baht.
There are a fleet of airport taxi's, convenient when you arrive. These operates with fixed prices according to distance, the fares are reasonable and then are normally very polite and friendly.
There are still a few samlors around, three wheel push bikes with a small seat for one passengers. Sadly, these are being squized out by heavy traffic and low demand.
From Chiang Mai you can travel to Laos and Burma (Myanmar) by various means. There are a number of international flights to other countries in the region.
Accomodation
There are plenty
of hotels and guesthouses, both centrally in the city and around. The very
nice Tamarin Garden Resort is smack in the middle of town,
a tranquil garden in walking distance from many sites and temples.
The Four Seasons Resort (previously Regent Resort) and the
Mandarin Oriental are very high end alternatives, both are
located outside town.
There are many inexpensive hotels and guesthouses to choose from in town.
There are many inexpensive hotels and guesthouses to choose from in town.
Hotels are online these days, and as we know a great number of websites are
dealing with bookings. I recommend checking several sites, as you can get
great prices. Guesthouses are rarer to find in online booking services, but
there are plenty of them in Chiang Mai. All around the Thapae gate area there
are many options. Soi 9 off Moon Muang road has several guesthouses,
restaurants and services, nice atmosphere and low prices. A backpacker's soi.
Sightseeing
Chiang Mai is a good base for exploring the north. Many tour operators are based here or has branch offices. Everything from day trips to more extensive expeditions are arranges.
The city itself
is worth some exploration. Exiting markets, the Night Bazaar, and almost as
many temples as there is in Bangkok gives Chiang Mai a special atmosphere.
The Warorot market in chinatown near the Mae Ping river is
interesting. This is a day market, many vendors and shops closes around 5
pm. Nearby is a flower market with very low prices.
The Wat Doi Suthep is
unique and should be visited. It is located in the mountain overlooking Chiang
Mai, and on a clear day you will have a magnificent view of the city and its
surroundings. See the airplanes take off from above! To get up to the temple
from the road you can either take a escalator or you can walk the old stairs
all the way up. Walking up yourself is considered to be a merit-making undertaking.
Make sure you know what day of the week you where born. In the temple there
are urns for each day, and it is good luck to put coins in the one set up
for your special day. The number of coins vary according to weekday, so take
note and get it right. One Baht coins are used, so this is a very modest expense.
There are many donation boxes and a souvernir outlet inside the temple. This
may seem to some a bit much in contrast to Buddhism, but the souvernirs there
are very inexpensive and they have great maintainence costs. Most of the temple
structure is open, and the combination of wear and tear from thousands of
visitors and the weather makes keeping the place in shape a costly undertaking.
Souvernirs and shopping
Go to the Night
Bazaar in the afternoon. Vendors' start setting up around 4 pm. Everything
from expensive, genuine antiques to dead cheap modern produce is for sale.
You can make good bargains on silver works made locally.
If you are a vendor's first customer of the day, you can often make especially
good bargains. It seems to be something about good luck and getting business
started. You know you are the first if the vendor uses the notes you have
payed with to pat the goods on display - this is supposed to bring further
business.
The Warorot
market is located between Wichayanon and Praisani
roads, and along the latter you find most of the flower vendors. The market
itself is inside two buildings on each side of the road, connected with a
walkway. Inside their basic layout is a open ground floor with upper floors
as galleries. There are many side corridors and odd corners, making it a bit
of a maze to get through.
Everything from childrens toys to school uniforms are for sale.
A lot of Chinese specialities are for sale, both in the market itself and
in shops around. If you are interested in Chinese medisin there are several
"pharmasies" around.
A number of gold shops sells "pure" gold, around 23 karat. You pay
by weight, and the updated price is normally on display. The weight measure
used for gold is "baht", and one baht equals 15.6 grammes or .487
troy ounces.
On the Chang Moi road that goes from the inner city moat
all the way up to Warorot and the river there are a number of fabrics shops.
If you need a stepladder, safe box or some basic furniture this is a good
road to walk. There is a good bike shop about halfway between the moat and
the river where they also sells GPS units.
The Sunday
walking street in Ratchadamnern road is popular. This road goes from
Thapae gate all the way to Wat (temple) Phra Singh, one of the main temples.
An alternative is the Saturday walking street in Sankamphaeng
town, about half an hour out from Chiang Mai. Many of the same vendors that
sets up shop on Ratchadamnern on Sundays are here, and the prices tends to
be lower than in the city.
Just outside the city, on San Kamphaeng road are a number
of outlets for silk, jewelry and teak and other hardwood furniture. One that
is reputed to be ok is the Gems Gallery,
a large setup with branches nationwide. Bargaining is expected.
Lots of wood at Ban Tawai past Hang Dong, about half an hour
from town. All things handcarved, and a lot of furniture.
If you come with a guide to one of the silk, furniture or gems shops be aware that a comission to the guide will be part of the price you pay. Even a taxi or tuk-tuk that you have directed to the shop yourself may claim to have lead you there, to qualify for a reward.
DK Books
is centrally located on Kotchasarn road along the moat. They have a fair selection
of guidebooks and more in English. The Suriwong Book Centre
on Sri Dornchai road is also good.
There are several second hand book shops, especially in the Moon Muang road
area. A good long time favourite is the small and friendly The Lost
Bookshop on Ratmakka road, just off Moon Muang. Small, but friendly
and well organised.
Larger and also a very clear favourite is Gecko
Books, in a small street (Chaing Moi Kao) just off Tapae Gate
- on the outside of the moat. Very well organised, very friendly, and very
convenient. Not to be mistaken for its next door neighbour,
another used book store.
Some guesthouses and restaurants also peddle in second hand books. The very inexpensive and laid back Supreme House guesthouse in soi 9 off Moon Muang road is one example.
Food and entertainment
Prices are generally lower here than in Bangkok. A 200 houndred Baht meal should cost about half here, and it is easier to find and get to the different restaurants.
For a first class
dining experience you can try the Royal Lanna restaurant.
It is located off the San Kamphaeng road just outside town, and shorts and
singlets are not welcome. The restaurant is situated in its own private park
area, with decorations such as a temple in 1:1 scale.
You can sit inside in aircon or outside on the terrace or in various locations
in the park. Very good food, and surprisingly cheap for such a place.
A less formal and very inexpensive alternative is the Tha Nam restaurant located on the riverbank about 10 minutes south of town. Great lstyle, live band plays traditional Thai music in the background.
Khao Soy is a local speciality you should try. Many westerners likes this dish, a soup with egg noodles and chicken of pork, or vegetarian. A good place for it is the "Just Khao Soy" restaurant on Charoen Prathet Road, near the back entrance to the Anusarn market. Large helpings and they have a very nice presentation that explains all condiments and their use in English. MSG free.
Western food in Chiang Mai
There are plenty of choises. For pub grub try the Red Lion or the Queen Victoria Inn. Nice and tidy places both. For French haute cuisine you can try the Coc D'Or in the former residence of the British Consul on Koh Klang Road.
There are Italian, Mexican, Israeli, Greek, German and Australian alternatives, and more.
Entertainment
There are some
popular spots along the Mae Ping river, like the Riverside
and the Brasserie. The Riverside can get quite crowded at
times.
The Spicy downtown seems to be open 24 hours, a sort of late night pick up
joint.
There are a number of bars in Loi Kroh road and around Moon Muang road with
way too many hostesses.
At the Airport Plaza and the Huai Kaew / Central shopping malls there are several cinemas. The latter also sports a full scale ice hockey track - of all things to find in Northern Thailand.
Check the "Exploring Chiang Mai - City, Valley & Mountains" guidebook for more details.